dangerous

Yesterday Paul and I went surfing and had the best time ever. There is a low pressure zone to our north, so for the last week and a half there has been an amazing swell. Winter is coming!

Paul nearly sliced of his right pinky toe while he was paddle boarding on the sharp coral, so we have been waiting until it healed before we got in the water again. Hawaii has really warm waters, so staph infections are more common here than in other places.

Kahaluu has three breaks (see the photo) The first one is really close to the rocks. Unless you have a very maneuverable shortboard, I don't suggest this one as as soon as the wave breaks, you are on top of the rocks, so you need to be able to move.

Paul and I usually stick to the last break, where all the surfers in the satellite image are. However, the waves were so huge that I was getting pummelled, and so was Paul. One time I was under so long I thought my lungs were gonna explode. I felt this really sharp pain in my thigh as the leash of the board wrapped around my leg and gave it a hard yank.

I moved to the second break, where the waves were a lot more regular and I was able to stand up most of the time.

When I climbed out of the water, Paul asked me what happened to my leg. I discovered that the cord hadn't yanked it, but I had actually slammed into the coral. I guess I didn't think I had been pushed down that far. As you can see from the photo, there is a A LOT of coral. During low tide (when the surf is best), you are probably in three feet to four feet of water. It is fine during a controlled fall, but not when the wave dumps a ton and a half of water and holds you down.

Unfortunately, a man drowned out there yesterday right after we finished surfing so Paul and I are going to be super cautious. Gonna wait until my leg heals a bit before I get in again, but I will keep you all posted!

P.S. Blog is going private tomorrow